Wholesale Price China POC-C Round Male Straight for Sri Lanka Importers

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Features This Ultra small fitting is 40% smaller than standard fitting in volume. The mini fitting surface is chromated treatment, so it’s corrosion resistance. Specification Fluid Admitted Air, Vacuum, Water (no freezing) Working Pressure 0—1.0MPa | 0—150psi Proof Pressure 3.0Mpa | 435psi Negative Pressure -100Kpa | -29.5 In Hg Working Temperature 0—60°C | 32~140°F Applicable Tube PU / PA / PE / PVC   Metric Tube ØD 3mm 4mm 6mm Thread Standard an...


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Wholesale Price China POC-C Round Male Straight for Sri Lanka Importers Detail:

Features

This Ultra small fitting is 40% smaller than standard fitting in volume.

The mini fitting surface is chromated treatment, so it’s corrosion resistance.

Specification

Fluid Admitted

Air, Vacuum, Water (no freezing)

Working Pressure

0—1.0MPa | 0—150psi

Proof Pressure

3.0Mpa | 435psi

Negative Pressure

-100Kpa | -29.5 In Hg

Working Temperature

0—60°C | 32~140°F

Applicable Tube

PU / PA / PE / PVC

 

compact fitting

Metric Tube ØD
3mm 4mm 6mm
Thread Standard and Type
M3C

M5C

M6C 01C
M3X0.5 M5X0.8 M6X1.0 R1/8

Tube(Metric)-Thread(R)

POC3-M3C

POC3-M5C

POC3-M6C

POC4-M3C

POC4-M5C

POC4-M6C

POC4-01C

POC6-M3C

POC6-M5C

POC6-M6C

POC6-01C


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Wholesale Price China
 POC-C Round Male Straight for Sri Lanka Importers detail pictures


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We not only will try our greatest to offer you excellent services to just about every client, but also are ready to receive any suggestion offered by our buyers for Wholesale Price China POC-C Round Male Straight for Sri Lanka Importers, The product will supply to all over the world, such as: United States , Thailand , Montpellier , With the aim of "compete with good quality and develop with creativity" and the service principle of "take customers' demand as orientation", we will earnestly give qualified solutions and good service for domestic and international customers.


  • Six popular high speeds carvers have their air flow measured at the manufacturer’s specified maximum air pressure. The more air flow (larger number on the mass flow meter), the higher the power the carver is capable of producing. Carvers measured:
    SCM Power Carver (entry level), Shofu Lab Air-Z (rebranded SCM Power Carver 400xs), Powercrafter, NSK Presto, Unbridled Vortex XJ7, Turbo Carver.

    Equipment used for measurements were “Accumulator Air Tank, 3 Gallon”, “Pressure Regulator, SMC ITV2030, 0.005-0.5 MPa (0-72.5 PSI), 0-5 Volts”, “Volumetric Flow Rate, Mass Flow Meter, Sierra Instruments, 0-5 Volts, 0-70 SLM”.

    For more information, visit www.SculptingStudio.com



    Images of another Passat that had no heat. http://imgur.com/a/wXOmm#6
    Hoses: 3/4 interior diameter acrylic hose, (rubber can be used to). 60/40 Clr/water solution, water pump camping stove or hot plate to heat solution. Compressed air between 60-100 psi.

    BIG WARNING: Be careful working with the inlet and outlet ports of your heater core as they can be broken if you do not pay attention to what you are doing or yank/step on the hoses connecting to the inlet and outlet. To make things easier removed plenum cover (plastic cover at the bottom of the windshield) the battery. This will make your access to the area easier and possible. To get the factory inlet/outlet rubber hoses off you need slide the factory clamps off the hoses and then you must soften the rubber hoses up with hot water. I mean boiling. Simply boil some water pour it on. There is a drain hole in that area and the water will simply drain to the ground. This will help make them more ductile and more easily removable. See hoses: http://i.imgur.com/fZQeQXz.jpg

    Also heat up the acrylic hoses you intend to use to work on this heater core to allow them to slide on more easily and when done you should also heat these up with the same method to remove them. Remember in the cold everything is stiff and hard to move. If you put too much torque on those rubber hoses or the acrylic ones you put on then you could end up breaking the inlet/outlets ports then you will have to fix them…depending on how bad the break is can be done but avoid this at all cost. see image below.
    AVOID THIS: http://i.imgur.com/NKkmdvX.jpg

    Some background info WHY THE HELL ARE WE DOING IT THIS WAY?? ARE YOU CRAZY????

    The heating up of the clr solution is to increase its ability to dissolve what is inside the heater core. The long circulation period I recommend is to enable to Solution to do its job with more time to work on the blockage. Remember slow and steady wins the race. The reason that this should be done instead of just using a garden hose and high pressure air is simple. This is what the inside of your heater core looks like: http://i.imgur.com/WwGcxHt.jpg

    Your heater core is a small heat exchanger. Essentially just a bunch of copper tubing with an aluminum heat sink built around it to help dissipate heat when air is passed through the aluminum fins. Inside those copper tubes are what I like to call which also have little swirly doodles. They are literally a copper spiral that cause the coolant inside the copper tubes to come in contact with the walls of the copper tubes which in turn increase the heat transfer efficiency from the coolant to the copper tube walls and thus to the aluminum fins. This form of energy transfer is known as conduction
    What is happening inside your heater core is that he coolant is being restricted through all those copper tubes and their swirly doodles. So long as the coolant is changed regularly you would be fine but if anyone lets it get too old or adds green…orange or any other kind of coolant that is not g12. Then it forms a precipitate scale. The scale builds up looks like this: http://imgur.com/a/wXOmm#2 and http://imgur.com/a/wXOmm#1

    It kind of like a calcium scale. So using a low ph solution of clr and distilled water will help dissolve it. By increasing the temperature of the solution to warm..almost hot it will increase its ability to dissolve more of this crap.

    Why do we want to dissolve it? Why not just hit it with the garden hose and compressed air?
    Answer:

    Now that you know what is inside your heater core and what this stuff does (restricts flow of fluid in the heater core). You have to understand that just using water and compressed air to try and brute force it clear will not achieve long lasting result. Say that heater core is 99% blocked. A garden hose and compressed air can probably clear out 40 % of the blockage. But the effectiveness of a garden hose and compressed air drops off after this because the pressure can no longer build up to help brute force that blockage out of the core since the water and air can now flow through that 40% opening. The water and air will take the path of least resistance and not impart enough of its energy on the reaming blockage. So you will have a small amount of heat gain. Then in a few months it will get plugged up again from whatever else is in your cooling system.

    Remember this stuff has created a scale inside core. By letting the CLR solution circulate throughout the heater core it can break down the blockage, weakening its grip on the heater core. Do this twice but be cautious as if you apply too much pressure you could run the risk of popping one of those copper tubes which results in a leaky heater core. They are fairly robust but don’t hit it with more than 60-100 psi. Then just flush with the garden hose and repeat on the other side. NEVER FLUSH ENGINE BLOCK WITH CLR. USE ONLY TAP WATER.

    This enterprise in the industry is strong and competitive, advancing with the times and develop sustainable, we are very pleased to have a opportunity to cooperate!
    5 Stars By Barbara from Korea - 2016.06.25 12:48
    This supplier's raw material quality is stable and reliable, has always been in accordance with the requirements of our company to provide the goods that quality meet our requirements.
    5 Stars By Karen from Costa rica - 2015.09.23 17:37

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